OKTOBERFEST--THE REAL DEAL

The annual ArtsQuest Oktoberfest in Bethlehem, PA is usually held the first two weekends in October. I was happy to see free admission this year, just like the original event in Munich, and I actually attended because of the policy change. Though I enjoyed the Philadelphia German Brass Band, the Karl Ehmer bratwurst, and the Yuengling Oktoberfest beer, nothing quite compares to the original extravaganza in Munich.

The annual beer binging bash began 204 years ago as the public celebration of the marriage of Crown Prince Ludwig, later to become King Ludwig I, and Princess Therese of Saxe-Hildburghausen on October 12, 1810. The field in which the event occurred was named Theresienwiese ("Theresa's meadow") in honor of the Crown Princess. (BTW--King Ludwig I was the grandfather of Ludwig II, the infamous "crazy" king who built all the really nice castles, but that's a subject for another blog) The party was so fantastic, the citizens of Munich decided to repeat the festivities every year since, except for a few times due to war or pestilence. Unbeknownst to most, due to the very cold Bavarian evenings that can occur in October, the modern-day, two-week event actually begins in September and ends the first weekend of October.

Though the local events can be fun, they don't come close to the magnitute of the original event that inspired them, where the normally empty 100-acre Theresienwiese is unbelievably tranformed into a bustling array of enormous amusement rides, food vendors, souvenir huts, and beer "tents." I use "tent" in only the loosest of its definition, since they are each the size of a football field with steel girders as frames. The 16-day party attracts over 6 million visitors from all over the world who consume 1.5 million gallons of beer, 400,000 sausages, and nearly half a million spit-roasted chickens (Handl) during the event. Even on a Wednesday afternoon, when this photo was taken from atop the 164-foot-tall Ferris Wheel (Risenrad), the "Wiesn,” as the locals call it, is packed. On weekends, it's nearly impossible to walk around or get a seat in one of the beer tents.

I've been lucky enough to attend the Oktoberfest in Munich four times, but the 200th Anniversary in 2010 was my favorite with the addition of the "Old Oktoberfest" section which brings back many historic agricultural displays, including steam-powered tractors, amusement rides, and smaller, more traditional beer gardens and tents.

It's always amazing to see how many attendees, German-born or not, wear the traditional

costumes of Dirdls for the ladies and Ledershosen for the men. I've been tempted to join them, but until my husband dons the latter, I won't stuff myself into the former. It is very nice to see many of the 20-somethings participate, perpetuating the unique Bavarian culture for future generations (Bavarians may be German, but not all Germans are Bavarian). You can buy cheap immitations at the train station, peruse more up-to-date and reasonably-priced interpretations in one of the many department store display windows in Munich, or go all out and buy the "real" thing at specialty "Tracht" stores, where a Dirndl can cost several thousand dollars for the whole ensemble. So far, I've only gotten so far as a hat and a neck scarf.

What's better than sharing a table with soon to be new freinds in a packed tent with beers the size of your head, a live oompah band playing, and enjoying a salted beer radish (Radi), a giant pretzel (Brezen), and a 1/2 a roast chicken (Haidl)? Our favorite is the family-friendly Augustiner Brau tent. The "Edelstoff" beer is the best in the world! Make sure to always be prepared to raise your one-liter Maß for the universal toast "Ein Prosit!" and to take a giant gulp at the ending chant of "Oans, zwoa, drei, g'suffa!". The bands play more than German music. Don't be surprised if the tent erupts into a chorus of "Sweet Caroline" or "Country Road." For an even bigger party, visit one of the other beer tents like Hacker-Pschorr or Spaten, where it's pretty common for patrons to dance on the tables.

As you wander around the fairgrounds and look at the myriad of giant roller coasters and log flume rides, you'd swear you were at Dorney Park. But, it's an amusement park that only exists for 16 days a year! By the end of October, it's all gone! A ride on the giant Ferris Wheel is a must. It might be a little expensive, but the view of Oktoberfest and the City of Munich are fantastic. I'm sure the view is just as spectacular on the enormous Bavarian Swing, which

dangles its riders nearly 200 feet in the air, but I haven't been brave enough yet to try it. For a more traditional experience, take a ride on the "Krinoline." Named after the stiff slip worn under a lady's full skirt, this wavy carousel first appeared at the Oktoberfest in 1924. Until 1938, when an electric motor was installed, it was operated solely by human force. Luckily, the live band wasn't replaced and is the only ride I've been on that features live entertainment.

If you are in Munich on the first day of Oktoberfest, you can enjoy the morning parade through town of all of the decorated beer wagons and groups from around Germany, Austria and beyond dressed in the traditional clothing of their regions. Many of the gun clubs also march with their members, men and women, decorated with award medals. The offical tapping of the barrel by the Mayor of Munich is at noon, a potentially embarassing event for which he actually practices to ensure he only needs one or two swings of the hammer to complete. Upon success, the Mayor declares "O'zapft is," marking the official start to the Oktoberfest festivities. If you can't be there in person, don't worry. The entire morning's events are aired live on local TV, kind of like the Macy's Day Parade here in the U.S.

Last but not least, don't forget to buy your sweetheart a gingerbread heart necklace to hang around their neck with a special greeting from Oktoberfest. They come in all sizes, small to gigantic, with messages as innoculous as "Greetings from Oktoberfest" to 'Sweet Princess," to the more serious "I love you." The funniest one I saw was "Old Pisspot." I guess you save that one until you've been married a while.

By all means, partake in your local Oktoberfest celebrations, but a trip to the original shindig in Munich should definitely be on your bucket list!

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